Looking for some sort of storage unit to fit under the seat in a 2005 Boston Whaler Sport 130.?

Whaler Sport 130. I would suggest getting a dry bag at a marine store and taking it on and off the boat. There is not much hull to drill into, plus the layout is tricky. Usually the best bet (besides building a deck) is getting a removable waterproof bag and fitting it under the seats. I know its kind of inconvienent, but it will work just fine.

Boston Whaler Montauk 15' opinions?

Any owners with thoughts on this boat? Buying experience and prices paid?Boston Whaler Montauk 15' opinions?
Good boat.Boston Whaler Montauk 15' opinions?
I have the 15' "Sport", Great Boat ! it can go places no other 15' would DARE go, Are you refering to the 17' Montauk model ? In either case it's the best boat in that size class, HANDS DOWN ! double hulled constructruction filled with closed cell floatation makes them UNSINKABLE, even after 2000 rounds from a machine gun, it still floats, they drive trucks over them and the hull's don't break (you don't see the competition doing that). They are expensive but, simple, I paid $3100 for my 15' sport in 1990 without a trailer, I still have the boat ! 2- summers ago there was a jet ski accident in the bay, a kid jumped a wake, and hit a bouey, it knocked him out, and injured him badly, the current drifted him up into the tidal flats at high tide, other boats could NOT get to the unconscience kid and were calling the coast guard, I just hit the "Tilt" UP on the engine, and with my "Shallow Draft" nosed up to the kid, grabbed his head out of the water "GOTCHA" !, the coast guard showed up (in less than 10 minutes), we put a backboard on him (broken hip), but could not get him on board with 3 people lifting, the poor kid was in agony, the coast guard to my surprise said, "is it O.K if we slide him onto the "Whaler" since it's lower to the water", I said "Let's Go", we did, the backboard slid right on the nose, the CG got on board, and their boat gave me an escort to a waiting ambulance, the kid lived, and another whaler "LEGEND" is born. People say to me "how can you afford to put your family in a "Boston Whaler" ?..... My reply.... "How can I afford NOT to" ! His mother called and thanked me, she also called "Whaler" and THANKED THEM !

jayco

What do you think is the maximum size outboard a 13 ft whaler can handle?

i have a 1980 (i think its an 80 mite be 70, its one of the originals not made any more) boston whaler, i have a 1990 30 horse evinrude on it but the engine is starting to fade into oblivion, i was wondering what you guys thought the maximum size outboard i could put on it, i was thinking a 50What do you think is the maximum size outboard a 13 ft whaler can handle?
according to a history of boston whaler, 40hp is the maximum size outboard.



check to see if there is a capacity plate mounted on the inside of the transom, it will tell you max.capacity.



take a look at this web site for more info on your whaler



http://www.continuouswave.com/whaler/ref鈥?/a>



hope this helps
i believe that boston whaler can only handle 35hp, any new 4stroke will make that boat fly, w/ less gas burning,What do you think is the maximum size outboard a 13 ft whaler can handle?
A 40 Tohatsu, the best small HP engine, a tank !!
I would think a 40 hp would sure be big enough, That is a pretty light boat. I personaly have a 15ft Glastron, with a 40hp, Merc. Although it is considered a, "Speed Boat" it travels quite well in the water. To big of a motor actually can cost you money in fuel, and the boat might become a bit unstable. Sometimes smaller is actually better. Good Luck. Have fun, Be safe.What do you think is the maximum size outboard a 13 ft whaler can handle?
Honda 30 @ 160 lbs. will move that Whaler with ease fully loaded with extra fuel and max passengers. a 40 puts about an extra 40 lbs on transom, I would rather carry that weight centered forward. Maybe an extra 6 gallons of fuel and a case of beverages on ice.
My 1987 13' sport has a 50hp evenirude and it runs great with tilt and trim.
There is a plate inside your boat that tells you the maximum HP that you can use; it to tell s you the maximum weight etc for the boat. It is usually white adn about 4" by 6" with the data on it. IF you are using the boat for maximum capacity or maximum speed then the difference in HP and even prop will make a difference, and you should contact a boat dealer in your area and ask them what motors they have for what prices. Since you will only have the one motor make sure you buy a quality motor. Personally I used a 30HP Tohatsu 2cylinder, 2 stroke on my Addictor 220 Race boat and it is an awesome motor. The 25 and 30HP motors are basically the same and the 40HP is only a little larger and heavier physically. A friend that bought the boat from me is still running it and I bought it new in 1984. The thing still screams with the stock prop or even a single person in the boat with the cupped prop for speed! On fresh water, with two people and the 30 HP Motor I was clocked at 56MPH, but when I race I am always alone in the boat, so I could have been going faster without my passenger in the boat. The boat empty weight was 220lbs. Although some of the people racing used 40HP motors the shaft was longer (more drag) and on the open ocean like from Newport, CA to Catalina Island 22miles and over the horizon, they had no advantage over the 30HP. They were larger, heavier, longer shaft...still a very great motor. Talk to a Japanese Fisherman or someone that knows Tohatsu and they will tell you that it is the "Cadillac" of motors. I only know Tohatsu for 2 stroke motors adn my 4 stroke experience is very limited. Mercury "Black Power" has been the name but I only hear great things about Yamaha and so on.
I had a 50 Johnson with a jack plate but the hull comes with a hull speed built in and the faster U go the bow is pushed down if U trim it up it will porpoise and pound U. I filled %26amp; fiberglassed the last 20" of the hull bottom and made it flat no more porpoising quite fast but won't turn at high speed.

Boston Whaler 13 - Does anybody own one?

I'm thinking about buying one for Florida intercoastal water and looking for any input (good, safe, etc.).Boston Whaler 13 - Does anybody own one?
The 13' Whaler has been around for a long time. They are well built boats that have stood the test of time. However, it is a 13' boat, and with low free board (sit low in the water) you will get wet. And they bounce around and in heavy seas take water over the bow, which as Whaler claims does simply Flow through the boat and out the back.



I actually liked the 15' a lot better.



There are several less expensive alternative boats available, so I'd make sure it's what I wanted before I buy!Boston Whaler 13 - Does anybody own one?
Well this depends.

Is it a "NEW" model? The new type are VERY competent in seas, even the 13 foot model. The newer model has a conventional bow, with a semi-V hull.



The older "Classic" style 13', the one that started out in 1958, is also a great skiff, but it is essentially a flat-bottom skiff and while unsinkable (yes!) it will give a bit of a rough ride in a chop.



If it is an older model, be sure that it is actually a Whaler--- and not a fixed up copy (it happens a lot) and also be sure the engine is the right shaft height. Older models (blue interior) are mostly "short shaft" or "standard" and need a 15" or 16.5" (old measurments) length motor. This is recognized by the cut-down stern motor mount area. Newer models use 20" shaft motors.



You should have at least 20 hp. A 25 hp works great. There is little benefit from any more power-- you will not go much faster (who are you racing anyway) because the boat stays flat- with all of the bottom in the water at all planing speeds, but you will be able to pull up an adult waterskier easier with a bigger motor--- if it is on there. The mfg rating is maximum 40 hp for the classic 13.



Remote steering is nice to have--- but plenty of the older ones use a tiller handle on the motor.



Older short-shaft models tend to work best with the original style cable and pulley steering, because special mounting is needed to put Telflex type on because of the transom cut-out. Long-shaft model boats will use the Telflex steering fine--- with the push-pull cable mounted directly to the motor.



If you get an older used one--- the BOAT holds its value with no depreciation, even some appreciation. The hardware--- like motors and trailers are subject to depreciation as usual.



Many of this model have a rail along each side. SOME have a bow rail which I personally find "in-the-way" on this boat.



A very nice thing to add would be a simple "bimini" sun-top. Especially for the Florida sun.Boston Whaler 13 - Does anybody own one?
boston whaler is one of the best brands in that type of boat, and they are good hulls for rougher waters.

but the 13 is a bit small and will bounce around or take on water in ROUGH waters a lot easier then any of the larger models. great for large lakes, but ont he ocean i'd want more boat.

I have a old boston whaler that is very heavy, can u remove the foam to make it lighter?

You can do anything, but by removing the foam, you also will remove the buoyancy that makes a Boston Whaler such a safe choice!



If you are planning on putting the boat in the water, leave the foam in!!I have a old boston whaler that is very heavy, can u remove the foam to make it lighter?
think about how much foam weighs. The resulting loss of bouyancy is far less than the amount of weight you are saving.I have a old boston whaler that is very heavy, can u remove the foam to make it lighter?
first- you cant remove the foam. second- why remove the lightest part of the boat.I have a old boston whaler that is very heavy, can u remove the foam to make it lighter?
the loss of the foam is not going to make much of a difference in whatever it is that you are looking to do. that foam that you have (should something happen) will only allow the boat to sink so far. what you are looking to do just might cost you your life and the life of someone else.
Having had Boston Whalers for 40 years, I'll tell you exactly why the boat is so heavy....there are either cracks or scrapes or holes in the inner or outer layer of fiberglass and water has gotten inside the hull.....while the foam doesn't soak up the water it doesn't do anything about keeping it out.So cracks on the inside have let in rain or wave water, on the outside the sea, and theres gallons and gallons in there.......even though the foam takes up all the space between the hulls, there are enough nooks and crannies and voids that there is LOTS of water in there.At 6.5 pounds a gallon for fresh and 7.0 lbs per gallon for salt

The only cure...and believe me, I've seen dozens of different ways of solving this problem, is haul the boat out of the water,prop it up so the transom is lower, and then drill a half dozen 1/8th inch holes in the bottom,at the low point, thru the fiberglass and into the foam ( about an inch deep, say).

Now go away for a month, if not longer. Fix the holes you drilled and any other spots on the bottom, inside and out....the boat will be hundreds of pounds lighter and will get up and fly with the same outboard that gave only sluggish performance....and you wont have to do this again for 20 years.

oh yeah, you cant take the foam out because its what provides space and structure between the inner and outer hulls.take the foam out and the whole thing collapses

Can you give me an idea of the maintenance (&costs) required for 15ft outboard 65hp boston whaler motorboat?

Freshwater --

Engine maint (assuming 3-cylinder 2-stroke outboard):

Annual gear oil change, $75 - $100 (DIY about $10).

Water pump service every 2 years, $150 - $200 (DIY about $60).

Minor tune-up every 2-3 years, $200 - $300 (DIY about $20 - $50).

Fuel lines, fittings, a few bucks every few years.

Lower unit seals, every 5 - 10 years, %26gt;$300 (DIY %26lt; $75).

Battery, keep it charged when not in use, add water when needed, should last 4 or 5 years.

Use a fuel conditioner and/or take the boat out %26amp; run it every 4 weeks or so will avoid costly carb rebuilds (at least $125 per carb, ($12 DIY)).

Prop service, every few years, %26lt;$100.

Forget the oil, or crank it without a water supply to the L/U, or run it into an underwater obstruction, or drop it onto the ramp, you'll spend a bundle.



Hull maintenance: expect corrosion and a harsh environment to take its toll on electrical wiring and fasteners (things bolted down tend to come unbolted with all the shock %26amp; vibration), you'll probably spend a few hundred bucks every couple years.



Trailer: tires usually wear out from exposure and underinflation with plenty of tread remaining. Hubs, keep 'em the bearings greased, check 'em every couple years.



Running in salt water will cost you more, but I have no experience with that.



On top of all that, expect something to break just about every other time you take it out, usually more annoying than costly, but you'll spend $20 here or $100 there.



With a boat, you want to stay on top of maintenance -- nothing's worse than dragging a boat 150 miles only to find that 6 weeks of disuse has caused some little problem that keeps you off the water.Can you give me an idea of the maintenance (%26amp;costs) required for 15ft outboard 65hp boston whaler motorboat?
congratulations on your new boat! the more you use it the better, dont leave it sitting for months like most people,anyway the costs are similar to a car,oil,services twice a year$250 for a decent service,the rest you do yourself ie:keeping it clean and stuffCan you give me an idea of the maintenance (%26amp;costs) required for 15ft outboard 65hp boston whaler motorboat?
If it runs good now, cools properly, starts fine, you could use this for many years with little or no maintenance costs. At the end of the boating season, disconnect the fuel line from the motor and run the engine til it stops, so gas in the carb doesn't gunk up. Use any leftover gas in the tank in your lawnmower, snowblower or whatever. Check your lower unit grease for water, squirt a little oil in each cylinder (through the spark plug holes) turn over the engine a few times with spark plug wires off. Ready to store. In spring, put in fresh gas and oil mix, new spark plugs every 3 to 4 years and you are good to go. " Don't fix it if aint broke" is good advice from an old mechanic.

13 ft Boston Whaler limitations?

I'm thinking about buying this boat with a 40 HP yamaha 4 stroke and live in coastal south florida. Is this boat okay for driving along the shore? What should I watch for? How many feet of water? How do I check/learn about these things?13 ft Boston Whaler limitations?
Do yourself a favor as you do not seem to know much, take a course at your local power squadron or similar organization before you endanger yourself or others. Am not certain on the HP rating or engine weight for the 13 ft Boston Whaler, but a 40 HP 4 stroke sounds like a bit much and the engine is considerably heavier than a conventional 2 stroke.13 ft Boston Whaler limitations?
before you buy a boat take the small boat safety course. this will give you basic boating knowledge about safety, rules of the road, navigation, boaters weather etc. this course will also discuss boat types, hull shape etc.



a 13' foot whaler is a good boat for running around in FL coastal waters. the 40hp yahama is about the right size for it (its not too big). whalers are foam filled unsinkable boats.



we used 13' whalers as our rescue boats (river rescue) and they worked very well.



they can also be rigged with a Bimini top to help protect you from the FL. sun.



sounds to be like a great first boat.13 ft Boston Whaler limitations?
I've used these 13-footers before. They're rated for a 40hp 2-stroke, which works fine- the 4-stroke is quite a bit heavier, and, in all honesty, I'm not familiar with how that'll work. That being said, the 13-footers are very durable boats, so long as the core isn't too waterlogged- even so, you don't want to be in seas greater than 1-2 feet with them, as they've only got a foot of freeboard.
Best check out the whaler if an old 1 as there foam filled and have issue with holding water inside the hull and making it quite heavy and performing terrible. They also have a trim built into the hull that makes it bow down when running. The 4 stroke is nice but very heavy for this small boat.With limited free board fair weather and little wind before venturing out. There are other V hulls that won't pound U to pieces for less $$.Have had most all.Take 1 out in a small chop and U will see the hard wet ride.

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